Olaplex has finally launched its cult range for fine hair – but does it work?

Formula

Compared to its universal no.4 predecessor, Olaplex’s new no.4 shampoo for fine hair takes a gentler approach to cleansing. For instance, the new formula removes silicones to prevent weighing down strands and uses surfactants that are less likely to strip away natural moisture, like the sodium laurel sulphate used in the original product. The new iteration does away with the heaviness of avocado and grape seed oils, swapping these for more lightweight nourishment using apricot oil, which also works to strengthen. The formula is also designed to thicken your hair with a combination of agents that coat the hair shaft, including sclerotium gum, an addition to the formula, which acts as a body-building, flexible and volumising film. The no.4 fine iteration boasts the same candy-sweet scent as the original and appears identical.

Performance

I was pleased to report the same reliable lather I’ve grown used to with Olaplex and though it takes a little graft to rinse it out of the hair, it easily tackles oily roots and build-up. I’d argue that you can feel the formula working to thicken the hair as you massage it into the scalp, with the texture of the hair and bubbles at this stage akin to a chalky texturising spray.

After blow-drying, my hair felt fresh, soft and clean. I was also surprised at how well the thickening agent worked, as my roots appeared lifted and my entire head of hair noticeably fuller even after just one wash. After consistent use, these effects only amplified, and I found that the thickness of my hair pretty much doubled in a matter of weeks.

Formula

Much like the shampoo above, Olaplex’s new no.5 fine conditioner swaps silicones for lighter forms of hydration (e.g. behentrimonium chloride) and oils for ingredients like niacinamide. It also adds hydrolysed quinoa, which, being rich in peptides, smooths the hair cuticle and provides a protective, body-boosting film. Together with the shampoo’s sclerotium gum, these wash formulas set out to thicken the hair on a strand-by-strand basis.

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One of the key draws of Olaplex products is the brand’s patented bond-building ingredient (bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate), which fans will be pleased to learn is still present in the new fine hair formula. However, there’s more of a focus on volumising than repair with this new iteration, so there’s less noticeable restoration.

Where the universal conditioner contains ingredients designed to reduce frizz and breakage, the fine hair formula focuses more on those that help build volume and minimise static. A few of the original repair elements have been sacrificed to keep the formula light and fine hair-friendly.

Performance

How do these changes translate to a real-world testing scenario? Overall, I found the new conditioner to be effective. It reduced breakage, detangling and softening my hair with ease. I loved the reformulation’s lightweight finish, and there was no static, even when using my boar bristle brush (a repeat static offender).

Admittedly, I did notice that my strands appeared less smooth when compared to using the original Olaplex conditioner. Where silicones can help to flatten split ends and mid-length breakage, the fine hair conditioner was lacking in this department.